LEJOG36: Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes

I was back on my lonesome again today. It had been great to have companions but I wasn’t worried about being back on my own again. When the scenary is good it offers another sort of company, one that can be appreicated in a different way when solo. Apparently Wainwright did all his walking on his own, and when you’ve got amazing landscape I can see why. Although it might also have been due to the fact that he was a bit of a grumpy bugger.

I got off the train and started a slow ascent back up through the moorland. For a while my view was closed in by the hills around me. I weaved inbetween them, braving a quick shower in which I chose not to put my waterproof on because the clouds werent very dense and didn’t look like they had much rain in them. I was right, making me feel a little pleased about the development of my hill walking skills. Overall the weather was sunny and windy, which was a satisfactory combination as it kept me cool but opened up the view.

This last was spectacularly proved when I got to Cam End. I had previously passed through Cam End when doing the Dales Way as a semi-training walk (I say semi because something that lasts less than five days can’t really train you for a three month walk) and was looking forward to retreading old ground, albeit going in literally the opposite direction. When I had been here last the weather was stormy and I could see dark angry clouds attacking the summits of several very big hills. I thought it an impressive place then, however this time the weather was improved and I could see so much more. It was a huge panorama of massive hills and mountains, some which i hadn’t realized had been completely hidden before by clouds and mist. I stopped for a while to chomp on as pork pie and take it all in. I could make out Penyghent on my left and Whernside and Ingleborough on my right. The route i had taken previously over what had seemed a big hill was now overshadowed by a much bigger hill in the background which made it seem much smaller and less threatening that before. I could also see the massive and picturesque Ribblehead viaduct which had also previously been hidden. It was absolutely stunning, and I immediately felt jealous of all the people who could so easily get here via train or car.

I continued on up around Dodd Fell with a huge valley to my left that I walked along for an hour or so. There were several plantations all in rigid geometric shapes on it’s side, which added to the spectacle by introducing the unnatural straight lines of human beings.

I got into Hawes quite early, around 3pm, which was a good time for the distance (14/15 miles in 5 hours). I bumped into Stewart in my usual haunt, the local outdoors shop, and we had a few pints of old peculiar. By the time I got to my Campsite‎ it was 6pm, due to wasting about an hour trying to find another place on the opposite side of town. It had a fantastic view of a set of big hills, with the shadows from the setting sun emphasising their folds and foliage. I set up, made my dinner, attempted to catch up on the blog, and then fell asleep very early purely because I could.

Sent from my iPhone

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